How to make a high relief from different materials? It's very simple. Lesson summary on technology on the topic "Bas-relief

Bas-relief modeling

First you need to prepare the wall: level and prime. In hardware stores there is a huge selection of putties, plasters and primers for this.
When the wall is ready and dry well, we apply a drawing with a pencil. I decided to make roses scattered on the wall. We check the composition: the uniformity of the pattern over the entire area, the alternation of small and large colors. If something does not suit you, you can fix it - the pencil on the wall is easily erased with an eraser.

Let's start sculpting. Professionals recommend taking gypsum putty. But I still had polymer-based putty from other works, I started working with it. Then, when I had to buy more material, I took plaster. Thus, I can compare two types of putties.
It turned out:

• diluted polymer putty is more elastic and obedient, unlike gypsum;
• the color of the polymer putty is pure white, gypsum - gray;
• when dried, the polymer putty is easily, effortlessly processed with sandpaper, gypsum has to be sanded with considerable effort.

I don't name putty brands, it doesn't really matter. You can take those that are available in the store and fit the budget.
So, we breed putty.

The consistency should be quite dense, but not tight, but elastic.
I worked as a palette knife. It is more convenient to start from the middle of the flower. First I lay out and level the central petals.

Then I gradually move on to the next. The mass is laid out on the wall along the lines of the drawing in small parts.

We smooth them a little, level them, giving the desired shape. At the final leveling, you can moisten the palette knife in water and wet it over the petal. In general, it is best to try to level as smoothly as possible so that you do not have to sand a lot later.

Having issued one petal, we move on to another.

This is how a rose made of polymer-based putty (white) looks like.

Now let's start sculpting the leaves.

We spread the mass over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe sheet.

We draw a main line in the middle of the sheet with a palette knife.

Lightly smooth the putty in the directions of the side veins. In this case, it is not necessary to smooth the surface too much.

When everything molded dries, we begin to sand it with fine sandpaper. It ends up like this:

When all the flowers are processed, you need to properly clean them with a brush from dust and cover with a primer, preferably 2-3 times.
This photo just shows where the flowers are from gypsum putty (dark), and where from polymer-based putty (white).

You can cover the bas-relief with varnish. So the paint will be better preserved from burnout and pollution.
The sculpting process is very exciting. I am now thinking about the option of stucco molding on the balcony. By the way, if you can’t decide to make a bas-relief on the wall, you can take a sheet of fiberboard and make a picture first. Good luck!

Now hand-made goods are gaining more and more popularity. Gets into fashion with your own hands. With the help of available materials and simple technologies, you can easily make interesting souvenirs and decorations with your own hands. Such a thing as high relief looks great - this is one of the types of relief, which is distinguished by a large volume of protruding image elements. It is made of plasticine, gypsum, paper, using wood carving technique.

Plasticine or mass for modeling

This is the easiest option that is suitable for children's creativity. To create a beautiful souvenir you will need the following:

• plasticine;
• stack;
• the foundation.

High relief is a semi-volumetric image on the plane of an object. For plasticine, both plywood and a complex rounded shape, for example, a vase, a glass, a box, are suitable.

You can take a mass for modeling or plasticine - the usual children's color or sculptural monophonic. Remember that the latter is more solid. Sculpting from it is not easy, especially for a child. It is better to cut it with a knife or a plastic stack. For children's creativity, take bright colors. As a first experiment, try to make a bas-relief. If you need to convey some element as fully and volumetrically as possible, you should use high relief. This is the most suitable option. It is easier to make it than a three-dimensional sculpture, and in terms of effectiveness it is not inferior to a three-dimensional object.

Paper souvenirs

Both bas-relief and high relief are easily made from this simple material. They use various methods of bending the sheet, gluing the parts together, that is, it turns out that works both from plain design paper and from colored sheets of pastel or bright colors look interesting. It all depends on the purpose of the executable object.

Decorative wood products

Any relief option can be made using carving technology. It is performed both on gypsum and on special solid masses, but it is easiest to use wood. They make decorative panels and other household items and interior decorations: stools, chairs, tables, shelves, wooden spoons, mugs, vases, chests.

Gypsum interior decoration

High relief and bas-relief are used for decorative purposes when decorating household items, interiors, and architecture. You can make such a decor with your own hands. You will need the following materials:

• dry cement or plaster;
• plywood;
• slats;
• polyethylene film;
• container and stick for preparing the composition;
• tile adhesive.

The work is done like this:

If you have already mastered the technique of making a bas-relief, start making a high relief. This is a more interesting way of passing objects. The manufacturing technology is the same as described above, only the penultimate stage will be more difficult and take more time. After all, volumetric parts will have to be done in more than one step. It is the height of the protruding elements that distinguishes the high relief. The photos clearly demonstrate this.

So, you have learned what a high relief is and how you can make it yourself. Choose the technique you like and start the exciting creative process of creating a souvenir with your own hands.

Master Class. Panel "In the kingdom of goldfish"

Description: The panel "In the kingdom of goldfish" is made in the technique of multifaceted relief, the material is plasticine. A multi-plane relief is a type of sculpture where the sculptor resorts to depicting several plans to add volume. In this case, the images that are in the foreground are superimposed on the images that are in the background. Multifaceted relief is the oldest sculptural art. The most ingenious creation in this type of sculpture was the Eastern bronze doors of the Baptistery in Florence, the so-called "Paradise Gates", created by Lorenzo Ghiberti in the Renaissance.

The master class will be of interest to everyone: children, teachers, parents. First of all, the master class is intended for children in grades 3-4, but when making panels, adults must supervise and help children, as work with a cutting tool is provided - a clerical knife.

Purpose of crafts and: interior decoration, gift.

The purpose of the master class: to introduce the technique of making a multifaceted relief from plasticine.

Tasks:

To expand the general outlook, including in the field of world artistic culture;

Instilling interest in creative activity;

Development of aesthetic taste, compositional thinking, imagination;

Development of fine motor skills of hands;

Development of volitional qualities: perseverance, composure, diligence, accuracy, attentiveness;

Master class progress:

Now all together we will go on an unusual fairytale journey - to a beautiful kingdom. And who lives there, you will find out by guessing the rebus.

It is true that the mistress of the amazing kingdom is a goldfish.

Do you know her?

Where did you meet her? (In the fairy tale of A.S. Pushkin)

Do you think goldfish are only found in fairy tales?

Not only that, goldfish exist in the real world. Yes, don't be surprised.

In fact, this is the name of a species of freshwater fish of the crucian genus. Once upon a time in China, silver carp lived in ponds. They were unusually beautiful, so people decided to breed them at home as ornamental fish. Later, it was possible to bring out crucian carp with a golden color. They became known as goldfish. (Material from Wikipedia)

Goldfish have been admired in all ages, idolized, endowed with magical qualities. Poets and artists dedicated their creations to them. Consider how an ancient Chinese artist depicted the kingdom of goldfish. Describe the fish, tell us what the underwater world looks like.

Today you will also try to depict the kingdom of goldfish, only not with the help of paints, but from plasticine. You will make a wall panel. When doing the work, you will need to convey the amazing property of the underwater world - its depth.

To do this, I will introduce you to a new plasticineography technique - multifaceted relief.

Execution of the panel:

To work, we need to take: a sheet of cardboard, plasticine (yellow, blue, green and black), 2 sheets of paper, a picture of fish, carbon paper, sequins, pencil, scissors, a stationery knife or a sharp stack, rolling pin, vegetable oil.

We make the base - the background. Take a sheet of cardboard and begin to apply a thin even layer of blue plasticine on it.

Let's check the result.

Let's prepare plasticine of yellow, green and black colors for making panel parts. First, take the yellow plasticine and make a thick cake out of it.

Now you need to make the cake thinner and more even. To do this, lightly grease it with sunflower oil (so that it does not stick), put it on a sheet of paper, cover it with another sheet on top and roll it out with a rolling pin. We also make green and black cakes.

Let's check the result. Plasticine blanks need to be removed for a few minutes in the freezer.

We make stencils of panel details. To do this, using carbon paper, we will translate the images of fish and cut them out.

Let's check the result.

We make panel details. We put a stencil on a yellow plasticine cake and carefully cut the plasticine along the contour of the stencil with a clerical knife.

Carefully remove the part, correct the edges. We also perform the rest of the details of the panel.

Let's check the result.

From a green plasticine cake, cut out algae and leaves.

We make the background of the relief. We put algae on the background.

We make the foreground of the relief. We put fish on the seaweed.

We decorate the fish and algae with black plasticine details and sequins.

Side view. The relief (volume) of the panel is clearly visible here.

Technology Lessons,” Plasticine Bas-relief”

I decided that I need to write down what we do in the subjects of fine arts and technology, because I have to go through this 4 more times))

First, there will be infa from the Internet, later I will add the result that we got))

Bas-relief is a more complex version of working with plasticine. It will require some skill in working with this material, the ability to mix colors and accuracy. It is best to start mastering the technology of a plasticine picture with simple small images.

In the process of making a picture in plasticine technique, everyone develops their own style and manner, they gain confidence in working with the material, their own recipes for obtaining tones and shades, as well as little tricks and secrets. By completing a few simple and small paintings. It will be possible to proceed to a more complex work.

So, to create a plasticine bas-relief, you will need a plot (either your own or from a book (magazine)), a base, a set of stacks and some initial knowledge about the technique of making a plasticine picture. Thick cardboard, a Plexiglas plate or plywood are suitable as a basis.

Bas-reliefs made of plasticine can be both flatter and convex, depending on the components. At first, the background of the painting has a flat surface and resembles an oil painting, and in the bas-relief version, the constituent figures may slightly protrude above its surface. The picture can be square, round, oval, etc.

Plasticine is applied to the base with a stack or fingers. It is best to smear plasticine on cardboard with your hands, since the material under pressure lies in an even layer on the surface, thus achieving the effect of a smear with oil paints.

A picture can be embossed in many ways - by forming elements using a stack, sculpting individual parts, by cutting with scissors and lifting cuts, rubbing plasticine through a sieve or squeezing it through a garlic press.

Work on the painting begins from the top edge of the base, in order to prevent the hands from touching the surface areas covered with plasticine. Rounded and oval elements are made of rolled plasticine balls, which flatten out when fixed on the base. Thin stripes in the picture are made using rollers rolled on a plane.

The rollers should not be too long, otherwise it will be difficult to transfer them to the base. Long lines and elements are made up of several short rollers. Before applying the rollers to the surface, they must first be cooled. When rolling out thin rollers, it must be borne in mind that when flattened, they increase in cross section.

To complete such details of the picture as petals, flower stalks, curls, strands of hair, you will need even rollers, which can be obtained by squeezing heated plasticine through a disposable syringe or through a garlic press.

If you rub plasticine through a small metal strainer, you can get loose and fluffy elements of the picture, such as corals, grass, animal fur, and more. With the help of a comb, the tips of scissors, an awl or a stack, by pushing through thin grooves, you can achieve the effect of embossing some details of the picture (for example, sea waves or ripples can be done by scratching the surface with a comb). To depict leaves or tree crowns, a carved edge is created near the plasticine part. This can be done by cutting the plasticine cake with scissors, a stack or a scalpel, pressing it at an angle to the design line.

Some details of the plasticine picture may have a complex outline. In this case, you need to apply a plasticine cake and remove the excess plasticine with a stack.

If the picture contains elements that are difficult to mold, then they are repeated with a thin layer of plasticine on paper, cut out with scissors and stuck to the base using thin plasticine rollers.

To get the effect of volume or transparency of some elements of the picture, plasticine is applied in a thin layer and rubbed with your fingers.

To achieve the desired effect, the excess layer of plasticine is scraped off with a stack.

How to arrange and store plasticine bas-reliefs? They are best stored under a transparent film, they can also be placed in a frame under glass, but put a gasket along the frame that matches the bulge of the image. Plasticine paintings should not be deformed, exposed to direct sunlight and heat.

So, to summarize, what is needed to create a plasticine picture? Base: cardboard, plexiglass, plywood, oilcloth.

Tools: a set of stacks, scissors (for cutting out parts), a stationery knife or scalpel, an awl or toothpicks, a rolling pin, a comb, a metal strainer, a garlic press or a special plasticine press, a regular medical syringe, special sets of molds and syringes for plasticine. Black lead pencil for sketching.

For the little ones, triangular black lead pencils are very convenient. Modeling board. You can take a piece of ordinary linoleum. A glass of water (for wetting the hands so that the plasticine is not sticky) Napkins for hands. It is very convenient to use a regular kitchen microfiber damp cloth. Good plasticine.

This is the plasticine that has a bright color, rolls thinly and does not stick to your hands. Come up with a sketch. Select image color and background. Select the desired picture format. Decide what size and shape it will be. Prepare the base according to these dimensions.

Frame with glass or cling film.

In the bas-relief technique, you can perform individual plots, masks and much more. For a bas-relief that will be painted, you can take the remains of plasticine and mix them into a total mass.

All kinds of masks, the image of which can be found in books and magazines, can be a wonderful decoration on the wall.

The basis for such products are wooden and plastic planks; for very small ones, nylon or metal lids for cans are suitable.

We sculpt a bas-relief.

Select a picture to create a bas-relief.

We tear off small pieces from plasticine and smear. We will get the basis for the bas-relief.

This is the drawing we got.

Details for the picture are carried out separately. We use special molds.

We attach the resulting silhouettes to the base. We decorate them. To do this, draw a relief pattern on them with a thin stick (needles for the Christmas tree, feathers for birds, fur for animals).

Using the cutting technique, we pinch off a small amount of plasticine and immediately attach the wings to the birds, grass and petals. Stems for flowers are obtained by rolling sausages. We roll up and fasten small balls in the center of the flowers.

We decorate our craft with multi-colored beads. giving her a cheerful mood.

ideas for inspiration will be in the comments.

Make the WORLD BRIGHTER| Make the WORLD BRIGHTER

Many parents are interested in the development of their beloved babies. who need comprehensive development.

Modeling develops Creative skills children, as well as developing fine motor skills of fingers, which affects development of speech and thinking.

I have already said that you can sculpt from almost anything. Today we will talk about modeling from plasticine.

Some parents believe that it is enough for a child to buy plasticine, that the child himself will start doing something with him and sit at work for hours.

This is not at all the case, and those parents who decide to leave their child with plasticine unattended receive soiled wallpapers, floors, rugs, furniture, etc. There is nothing to be surprised here, the child, who began independent studies, found only such an application for plasticine.

Having explained to the child that we sculpt only on the board, it’s impossible anywhere else, and leaving the child again, you will see a lump of plasticine, where the child mixed all the colors, and maybe even “hid” a toy or mother’s favorite earrings ... After that, as a rule, mothers decide that it is too early to give plasticine to a child, but for now modeling in a kindergarten or school is enough. On this, modeling at home ends completely.

If you had such a negative experience with plasticine modeling and abandoned it forever, then I advise you to try other materials for classes and find one that suits you (salt dough, cold porcelain, clay, plastic, wax, etc.).

Do not leave the child alone with the material for creativity. Try to sculpt yourself, feel the pleasant sensations of working together with a child. You do not need to be able to sculpt brilliantly at all, learn with your child. Your child will be extremely grateful to you.

Important, in the choice of plasticine, is its quality. It is difficult to work with plasticine that is too soft, it does not hold its shape well and sticks to hands. Too hard plasticine is difficult to pinch off, roll, and small fingers will not be able to work with them at all.

When sculpting with children, choose bright colors and the more colors, the greater the flight of fancy. It should be noted that flavored plasticine will distract the child from the lesson, he will sniff the plasticine, then lick and most likely bite off.

For classes, carefully choose plasticine!

In addition to plasticine, you will need oilcloth to protect the surface of the table; boards on which you will roll plasticine and cut; stacks - a tool for cutting plasticine; wet wipes or rags to wipe your hands.

We conclude that plasticine classes are necessary for a child, but only under the supervision of adults, classes will be more interesting, if adults also sculpt, you will get amazing work!

Where to start and what to sculpt with a small child, read the article "First lessons with plasticine." And today I want to introduce you, my readers, to the bas-relief.

What is a bas-relief?

Bas-relief is a common type of decoration of architectural structures and decorative items that appeared in antiquity. Bas-relief is translated from French as low relief, i.e.

an image protruding from the plane by less than half of its volume (weak convexity). High relief image - high relief.

Bas-relief and high relief can be made of different materials: clay, marble (or other stone), wood, bronze, etc.

Having introduced the second grade students to the bas-relief, looking at its samples in the photo of various architectural structures, she gave the children paper plates and asked the question “What bas-relief will we create?”.

After listening to a lot of ideas, we settled on two for now, these are fruits and vegetables. The guys came up with the composition and color scheme themselves, some tried to mix different shades of color. The stack was used to work out the details.

Here's what we got.

The work turned out to be unusual, the guys created their works with great interest and examined others. Parents also praised the children for their excellent work. Despite the fact that children are 8 years old, interest in plasticine does not disappear!

The beauty! Modeling: bas-relief with a fantasy flower. Master Class

I bring to your attention my master class on sculpting a bas-relief of a flower.

Any idea finds the beginning of its embodiment in a pencil sketch. Our Flower could not be an exception.

Starting from this scheme, we drew a sketch on a scale where all proportions were preserved.

Tracing paper with a sketch on masking tape was fixed on the wall prepared for this.

And the preparation lies in the fact that it must be leveled and plastered.

The translation of the picture is made by tracing it using carbon paper.

For further work, we needed: about 2.5 kg of well-mixed sculptural clay (it should be soft, but not sticky to your fingers), stacks, a knife, a kolinsky brush, a bristle brush, a rolling pin, two containers - one for water, the other for for slip.

We also need to prepare a slip on which we will glue fragments of the relief. A slurry is nothing more than the same clay brought to the consistency of liquid sour cream. We use ordinary water as a thinner. You can add PVA glue there (about a third, but this is not strictly).

The clay itself must be wrapped with a damp cloth and put in a plastic bag so that it does not dry out.

In our case, we started sculpting from the top left edge. Although, in fact, it was necessary to start from the central part, where there will be the most massive and multi-layered fragments. All this in order to optimize the drying process. After all, it is more desirable to impose the next layer on the dried one. But we had time to stretch the pleasure.

It is necessary to separate from the whole piece of clay exactly as much as is required to form a fragment. Try to immediately hide the extra pieces in the bag. Do not make elements too bulky so that when you transfer them to the wall, they do not fall apart.

You can divide all stucco elements into 3 main types: flagella or sausages, layers and balls. Everything else is derived from them. Therefore, before sculpting a fragment, determine for yourself what kind of view it will be.

The layers are rolled out with a rolling pin, but everything else is done by hand. Coat the area on which you intend to glue the fragment with slip, use a bristle brush.

Only when the fragment has adhered well enough, smooth it around the entire perimeter without leaving gaps.

With your fingers, stacks or even a rolling pin, give the mass the desired shape, work out the details. If necessary, smooth the relief with a kolinsky brush dipped in water.

Match the next fragment with the previous one so that no joints are visible. Do not leave an unironed area for a long time, the clay dries and then the unfinished part will have, perhaps, to cut and grind.

Step by step - and the relief is molded.

Leave it to dry for one week naturally. With high humidity and low temperature, the process slows down. Accordingly, you can speed it up by increasing the temperature and lowering the humidity.

When the work is dry, sand it down with fine sandpaper. Before painting, prime it with a solution of PVA glue with water (50%). Wait for complete drying. Then you can tint to any color. In our case, we used an airbrush, because the brush leaves marks.

If desired, again after complete drying, go over all surfaces with acrylic varnish (glossy or matte).
Thanks for attention! Unfortunately, MK may not be sufficiently illustrated, but I tried to describe the process in detail.

I hope that someone will be useful!

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Relief modeling in the senior classes of the art department of the art school | Wood, bone and stone carving

Goals and objectives of methodological development

The objectives of this methodological development are the study of interdisciplinary relationships between sculpture, drawing and composition. Three-dimensional image of objects in relief, the development of observation, visual memory and the ability to use composition, including decorative composition.

Also, the purpose of this methodological development is to summarize the analysis of the work on the subject "Sculpture" for the last four years of the art class of the Duminich children's art school. As well as the transfer of accumulated experience to colleagues, teachers of art classes of art schools.

The objectives of this methodological development is to teach students of the art class of the art school how to sculpt a relief. It is necessary to take into account the limitation of the hourly load on the subject “Sculpture”. In addition to the classical still life, the task of decorative composition is set. In this case, the task of sculpting a decorative frame is being performed.

As a result, the connections between sculpture, drawing, composition, including decorative ones, are studied. Very important is the combination of work, both from nature, and the performance of compositional tasks.

Still life modeling

Still life modeling is impossible without basic knowledge of drawing and linear perspective. A lesson in sculptural relief should be held in the upper grades of an art school. By this age, the final setting of the hand occurs and fine motor skills of the fingers develop. Students master sculptural clay and have sufficient skills in working with stacks.

At the beginning of the process of performing a still life, an installation conversation is held. The concept of relief is given. Examples of relief, bas-relief and high relief are studied. In addition to the blackboard and chalk, a cool computer is used, both educational photos and masterpieces of world sculpture from different times are considered on it. After that, an analysis of the still life fund is carried out.

The objects from which the still life is composed are selected. Performances are selected differently. It is necessary to take into account the age and level of training of students. It is very interesting to carry out this exercise in a complex. Drawing, "grisaille", modeling. The dimensions of the future plinth and pattern are the same. A3 format or, roughly speaking, 30x40 centimeters.

The performance itself is placed below the level of the eyes, the “horizon”, the lowest student. As a rule, this is a stool or a chair. A simple drapery with a minimum of folds is used. First, a pencil drawing is done. Attention is paid to the design of the still life. The plane of the table is carefully built, and all the rules of perspective are observed.

Then, the drawing is translated through the glass. All this is done solely due to the fact that the limit of hours for sculpture is very small. Therefore, drawing and grisaille can be done in the lessons of drawing and painting. Grisaille is made using the technique of multi-layered watercolor painting. The main thing at that stage is to analyze the volume and depth of the setting.

Of course, this is not a traditional “grisaille” technique, but something more conditional adapted to school conditions and requirements. Rather, it is an architectural hillshade using black watercolor.

After the preparatory stage, we proceed to the preparation of the plinth. On a piece of hardboard, plywood or linoleum, we apply a layer of sculptural plasticine with a thickness of two to three millimeters. The size of the plinth, as mentioned above, is equal to the drawing.

We have a structural drawing, “grisaille”, on which we worked out the future volume, we proceed to the creation of the so-called “cardboard”. The very concept of cardboard, its origin and application is given in the orientation lesson. A tracing paper made through glass on a 1:1 plinth scale is applied to the surface, where sculptural plasticine is applied in an even layer.

Then a stylus, which is an old ballpoint pen. On tracing paper, through holes are made. The technique is still known from medieval frescoes. Approximately the same drawing was applied under the reliefs. Only instead of punching, charcoal sprinkling was used. A step is applied every 3-4 millimeters. We remove the "cardboard". We connect the points with lines.

On the plinth we get a diagram of the future still life. Now you need to finalize the structural drawing, or "grisaille" to choose from. But drawing is better. It is better to work using both preparatory work. In the figure, we begin to work out plans for the future relief. For these purposes, a thin marker is better suited.

We make the foreground lines bold, the middle and background lines thinner, respectively. For greater care, we tick the boxes “more” “less”, as in mathematics. Let's start sculpting. For these purposes, flesh-colored sculptural plasticine is better suited. It is softer for children's hands. Of course, it would be better to use clay.

But according to the special requirements of the school, plasticine is preferable. He can easily take a break between classes. We apply plasticine to a more massive foreground. For greater depth and perspective, we sculpt from the corner of a table or stool. The main tool of the sculptor are the hands. But metal stacks are also widely used in the work.

The main condition is that they be blunt enough to avoid injury. We apply plasticine in mashed lumps, giving the necessary volume to the foreground. We level with steel stacks in the form of a carving or shoe knife. We pass to the average plan. We start modeling with the largest object, a jug, a bottle, a geometric shape.

When sculpting figures of rotation, it is necessary to pay attention to the clarity of arcs along the axes. To do this, you can cut out small patterns. We carefully perform the transition between objects and the lines of the plane of the table. The main thing is to follow the rules of perspective and avoid the “hanging” of objects above the plane. Here we are just faced with the features of relief modeling.

It is useful to make a “handwriting” of relief views from below, from above, from the side. That is, to study, once again, how objects of rotation behave on a plane. It is very useful to conduct a demonstration experiment with objects submerged in water. For this, an ordinary bowl is suitable. It is very valuable to periodically conduct a photo timing of the work. What's more, it's now available.

Almost everyone has a camera on their phone. Let's get back to molding. Plans in relief convey the depth of work and linear perspective. Therefore, the drapery cannot be convex, for example, a jug or a stool on which it stands. Therefore, moving on to the final stage of modeling, it is necessary not only to combine the still life plans, remove the excess and add the necessary.

Make a final finish. Bring gloss. To do this, students use water and their fingers. At the end of the work, an analysis of the completed still life is carried out. The reliefs are taken to the drawing class, where they are compared with the initial setting. The work is being discussed. Analysis of mistakes and successes. Since it is easier and more pleasant to find someone else's mistake.

Sculpting a decorative frame

Decorative sculpture in the art classes of Children's Art Schools, as a rule, follows the path of creating round sculpture using fairy-tale or genre scenes. In terms of the new requirements for an additional pre-professional program in the field of arts and crafts, this is not enough.

Modeling of decorative ornaments is also necessary for future wood carvers and ceramists. Preparatory work on molding a decorative frame begins with a study of the historical heritage. In the primary classes of the art school, ornament was studied at the lessons of decorative composition. The concept of rappoport of a static and dynamic composition in an ornament was given.

In high school, time is allotted to study the stucco pattern. The historical digression begins with the study of ornament through the ages. From Ancient Egypt, Greece, Rome to Europe of the Renaissance, Baroque, Art Nouveau. Domestic wood and stone carving is studied separately. Ship, brownie, temple.

For an introductory conversation, both the literature of the teacher and printouts from the Internet are used. On the example of a still life fund, sketches of acanthus are made, etc.

The next step is the compilation step. Students are given the task, based on the studied material, to make several sketches in a free manner. They are not put in front of a specific imitation of one of the styles seen. Rather, the freedom of creativity is encouraged in every possible way.

As a rule, the work is done in bilateral symmetry, but there may be asymmetric options.
After the sketch stage is completed, “cardboard” is performed. In the event that the work is symmetrical, one side can be made, which is then copied through the glass.

Works are performed with sculptural plasticine on a plinth made of hardboard, plywood or linoleum. A layer of plasticine from two to three millimeters is applied to the plinth. A drawing is pricked on it from the “cardboard”.

The modeling technology does not present great difficulties, since the plasticine is selected for softness, and the room is warm. The opposite can happen, the plastic mass is too soft and sticky. But here we must take into account the strength of children's hands. In extreme cases, plasticine is heated in hot water, and then wrapped in canvas.

Thus, its plastic properties can be improved.
In the process of modeling itself, it is important that the student catches the algorithm of work. There are two molding options. The first consists of the manufacture of "semi-finished" parts, which are then assembled according to the principle of the designer.

The disadvantage of this method is that in a hurry, the parts are poorly attached to the plinth. After some attempts, the student understands that they need to be fixed more reliably, “lubricated”. The second option is more labor intensive. It implies the widespread use of all sorts of stacks.

On the finished drawing, on the plinth is applied, a layer of plasticine about three centimeters. And then trimmed with stacks and loops.

The complexity of this method is that the plasticine “sole” closes the drawing transferred from the cardboard. And the student may become confused, panic. Therefore, it is important that the preparatory drawing is always at hand. And the work itself was carried out in parts.

Do not immediately make a thick plinth for trimming. No more than a quarter of the drawing. Since the total number of hours for the subject "Sculpture" is small, it is advisable to carry out these exercises in the third, largest quarter.

The assessment can be taken into account when summing up the annual results.

The use of these exercises significantly diversifies the educational process and arouses genuine interest of students ....

MKOU DOD "Duminichi Children's School of Arts" Methodological development on the subject of DPEP "Sculpture"

On the topic: “Sculpting relief in the senior classes of the art department of the art school”

Completed by teacher MKOU DOD Sergey Karpikov

Duminici 2012

List of used literature:

P.P. Gnedich "History of Art". M. Eksmo 2007 E. Lanteri “Lepka” M. 1963 “Publishing House of the Academy of Arts of the USSR” B.R. Vipper “Introduction to the historical development of art. Sculpture Section. M. 2004 Ast-Press A.A. Melnik “Basic patterns of construction of sculptural relief” M. 1985. “Higher school”

Review

Farnieva S.I.

After reviewing the educational material, I note its methodological fullness, interdisciplinary connection, as well as the real concern of the teacher about the safety of the performance of educational tasks for students. For my part, I want to add a couple of professional recommendations. They relate to achieving a sense of volume of objects. To prevent objects from appearing cut in half and glued to the background, it is necessary to make a separation from the background along the silhouette on the line of the horizontal axis of the base, and the height of the most convex part is not higher than this size. This creates a feeling of roundness of the object on the invisible side and, in general, makes the object voluminous. Once again, congratulations on a good and necessary methodological development.

Bas-reliefs / stucco on the walls with your own hands from plaster and other materials

New materials

Types of bas-reliefs

Tool

Bas-relief technologies

Once upon a time, interior decoration with stucco and bas-reliefs was available only to the highest nobility, the rich and large temples. Nowadays, making a bas-relief with your own hands is only a matter of labor and patience.

The achievements of modern technologies make it possible to bypass the technical difficulties of creating stucco at home for people who do not have an art education, but who are not devoid of artistic taste and imagination. Create bas-reliefs like those in fig.

below, quite within the power of a patient and attentive amateur.

Bas-reliefs of modern work

New materials

In addition to the traditional material for stucco molding - gypsum - do-it-yourself stucco molding can be created from modern building mixtures with polymer additives; they are often combined under the general name "acrylic plasters". How to gain the volume of a bas-relief with building putty compounds can be found in the video:

Video: sculpting a bas-relief from putty

Amateurs also use the basic composition of architectural gypsum, acrylic plaster and PVA glue in a ratio of 1: 1: 0.5 by volume. Gypsum and plaster mixture are mixed dry and closed with water, i.e.

water is added to the mixture, and not vice versa. Bring to a consistency from dough to yogurt or fat-free kefir and add PVA, stirring thoroughly.

The density of the mixture is selected according to the type of work with it, in which case which mixture is needed, see below.

Types of bas-reliefs

The bas-relief on the wall is made in low relief (top left in the figure) or high relief, with protruding figures (top right). A high bas-relief is also called a high relief.

Technically, high relief differs from low bas-relief in that the figures are molded like a round sculpture (see below).

A low bas-relief looks good in any light, except for very dim, and a high relief is more advantageous in diffused light.

Types of bas-reliefs

In residential areas, most often lit quite brightly and evenly, it makes sense to use a mixed bas-relief technique (bottom left), without making the figures very convex. How to fashion a bas-relief "Klimt Tree", see for example. video tutorial below:

Video: master class bas-relief "Klimt Tree"

Plastering in place

This is perhaps the most affordable way to make, say, a stucco ceiling for a chandelier (see fig.) Without experience.

Plastering a model in place differs from the previous method in that the model is first glued in place and plastered with a brush. Gypsum mortar is made thicker, like sour cream.

If the stucco is on the ceiling, the layers are applied very thin, translucent, so that there are no drips. Accordingly, layers will be required up to 10-15 or more.

Stucco ceiling under the chandelier

The main snag here is the material of the model. Usually they are made of polystyrene, penofol, polyurethane and other soft plastics. But over time, they all decompose. This happens very slowly, but anyway, after 3-7 years, dirty gray or yellow-brown spots that cannot be removed begin to appear on the stucco molding.

Therefore, models for plastering on the spot are best sculpted from salt dough, the very one from which Christmas tree decorations are made with their own hands. Salt dough is glued to plaster, stone and other mineral building materials with acrylic adhesive or any mounting adhesive.

Stucco molding on non-removable models from salt dough retains its appearance for 30-50 years or more.

Reverse casting...

This is the most common way to create stucco with your own hands, which allows you to get results of a completely professional appearance and quality without excessive work and skill.

The classic gypsum backcasting procedure is shown step by step on the left in fig., pos. a-e. Model 1 made of gypsum, plasticine, plastic, etc., or a model product that it is desirable to repeat / replicate, is placed on a flat shield 2.

Now, in order to facilitate the removal of the mold with the model, the shield is covered with a film.

Reverse casting from plaster

Then the model is smeared with a thin layer of lanolin. It is undesirable to use medical vaseline, the model may stick to the mold. Gypsum and any other porous (wooden, salt dough, stone, etc.) model is smeared several times, allowing the lanolin to soak for an hour or two, until a solid oily sheen appears on the surface.

Next, the model is coated with a layer of gypsum or alabaster mortar of 3 dough density with a thickness of approx. 1 cm, immediately forming protrusions-anchors 4 and stiffeners 5. The seized and almost hardened, but still slightly pliable coating is tied with a frame of soft (annealed) steel wire 6. The branches of the frame are fastened with bundles 7 of thin copper wire.

The next step is coating 9 with a thick cement-sand mortar from M150 with a layer up to 5 and a few more cm thick, this is already a casting mold. Here it is necessary not to forget to form the supporting surface of the mold 8.

After a set time of 3/4 strength with a cement-sand mortar (7-20 days, depending on external conditions), the finished mold 10 is separated from the shield using a wedge 11. Well, if the shield was covered with a film, the mold is simply removed.

Finally, the inner surface of the mold is cleaned with a copper brush 12 and, if necessary, defects are corrected with gypsum or alabaster mortar. Flash is removed from the side of the mold 13 and, from its inner edge, a chamfer of approx. 0.7 mm.

In a mold without a chamfer, the casting will almost certainly get stuck. Before casting, the inner surface of the mold is smeared with lanolin, like a model. The casting mass fills the mold layer by layer.

As soon as its penultimate layer begins to set, eyelets with a mustache are inserted into it (top right in the figure), for which the casting is then pulled out. For small ebb lugs can be made from paper clips.

The last layer is poured when the eyes are already sitting tightly in the penultimate one, i.e. when it is quite firm, but still slightly moist. It is unacceptable to test the strength of the fit of the lugs by rocking!

Currently for circulations up to 15-20 pcs. in the old fashioned way, they don’t pour from gypsum, the mold for such cases is cast from silicone (bottom right). The model prepared, as in the previous.

In this case, silicone is poured over in layers, in layers 1-2 mm thick, until a mold thickness of approx. 1.5-2 cm.

In addition to technological simplicity, the silicone mold makes it possible to obtain castings with shallow recesses, since it is elastic and stretchable.

Gypsum Mini Reverse Casting

Also, small rounded gypsum parts are poured into silicone molds: berries (see figure), acorns, mushrooms, etc., up to small fish.

In this case, a tray-flask is molded from plasticine, the model is also molded from plasticine. Silicone is poured into the flask all at once; the flask and the model are not smeared with anything.

After the silicone hardens, the flask is simply torn off, and the model is picked out. This is the so-called. mini - reverse casting of gypsum.

The mini-gypsum casting already uses a model to be removed; in a sense, the model disappears and for the next batch of castings it needs to be done again.

A silicone mold can also be made for plaster casting according to an investment model, then it will be possible to obtain up to 100-200 or more castings from it, but already convex, without cavities.

In this case, the flask is made in the form of a plywood box without a bottom 2-3 cm higher than the height of the model and the size is such that the gap between the flask and the model is at least 1-1.5 cm.

The model is formed from wax on a shield covered with foil. Then they put a flask and cover the gap along the bottom with plasticine. Next, the model is layer-by-layer doused with silicone, as in the previous.

case, and when its last layer hardens, silicone is also added layer by layer along the contour until the flask is filled to the top. As soon as the last layer is poured, the plywood bottom is stuffed.

The model is smelted with a household hair dryer: the lousiest silicone holds 140 degrees, which a hair dryer does not give.

modeling

Sculpting a bas-relief in place allows, as mentioned above, to achieve the maximum artistic effect, but requires certain skills. You can buy them without signing up for the evening department of an art university or courses.

It is enough to practice with plasticine; the technique is the same, only in working with gypsum time is limited - work with the next section must be completed before it sets.

Technically, gypsum modeling is distinguished between low (flat) and high (round).

flat

The technique of flat gypsum modeling is shown in the selection of photos below. The rules are like this. First, the material of the thickness of the dough or fatty sour cream is applied in layers. Second, each layer is first smoothed out, forming a relief at the same time, and then its contour is trimmed.

Third, the next layer, as in general in layer-by-layer filling with gypsum, is applied to the previous one that has set, but is still wet. Fourth, as the layers build up, they switch to a smaller tool. And fifth, in each layer, work is carried out from the thinnest and smallest details to the thickest and roughest.

In this case, from the denticles of the leaf to its petiole.

Low plaster molding

About branches

Branches on bas-reliefs are best removed with a confectionery syringe or, very thin, medical. The thickness of the branches is regulated by pressing the piston more and more weakly (pos. 1 in the figure). In this case, the texture is induced with a brush, and the kinks are formed with the tip of a palette knife. The syringe is filled with the base solution, and for painting and for snow-white it is plastered as a non-removable model in place.

Branches on plaster bas-reliefs

Strongly winding branches (pos. 2) can be obtained by soaking a cord or twine in a gypsum solution of sour cream density, laying it out on a shield covered with foil, along the contour, and after drying, sticking it on the wall.

If the bas-relief is prefabricated, the cord is laid out immediately, it will dry firmly. To get branches of decreasing thickness, some of the strands are removed or, conversely, 3-5 branches of twine are twisted at the butt, then 2-3, then one is left.

If the cord shines through the plaster, the branch is plastered in place, applying the solution with a brush

sharp ribs

In the pictures with bas-reliefs, you probably saw sharp ribs. They are formed by the folded thumb and forefinger, and the large ones are formed by the fingers bent back of both palms folded. The height and thickness of the rib is changed by smoothly shifting/spreading the fingers (palms) in motion along the rib formation. Fingers, as in general for hand sculpting, should be slightly damp.

Round

The basis of round molding is a wire frame anatomically similar to the object, i.e. with the proportions of the object and the location of the branches where the main bones of the skeleton are. The frame in a round figure works in the same way as the skeleton of a living being.

Information about skeletons can be obtained from any course in the plastic anatomy of humans, animals and birds. Plastic anatomy is not a discipline of medical, but of art education.

The material there is presented from the point of view of how to sculpt, and not how to heal, and is designed for listeners who are not disposed to the subtleties and rigors of science.

Figure height approx. from 30-40 cm is molded along the frame as shown in pos. 1 fig. For smaller figures, the frame is simplified (pos. 2), but following the principle of anatomical similarity. In humans, by the way, it is not so complicated: we divide the height by 8; 1/8 of its part will be a dimensional module of a harmonious human body, pos. 3.

Plaster molding on the frame

Frames of small animal figurines are made in a similar way (pos. 4a and 4b). It is desirable to reduce the weight of larger figures so that there is less fuss with fixing the bas-relief (see below). In this case:

• The base frame (pos. 5a) is made voluminous approximately along the contours of the body minus 1-3 cm for modeling, with the help of additional. branches from the same wire (pos. 5b). Auxiliary branches are attached to the main ones and fastened together with a winding of thin copper wire, and even better - soldering.
• Rolls of a medical bandage are soaked in a liquid, like fat-free kefir, gypsum solution, as for gypsum fractures of limbs (see, for example, the film “The Diamond Arm”), and the frame, pos. 5th century It is the rolls that need to be soaked: as soon as the bandage starts to peel off badly from the skein, it means that the gypsum began to harden and the rest of the roll went to waste.
• After the plastered frame has completely dried, it is covered in layers with a base solution (tinting can be used), adjusted in shape and texture with a tool and sandpaper, and plastered to pure white (if necessary) with a solution of architectural plaster.

Support for figures

Figures for home-made high reliefs are molded separately; locally is too difficult. Therefore, each figure must have a flat area, and on the base surface - resp. plane so that the figures can be glued into place.

How to fix bas-reliefs

The high relief with round figures turns out to be quite heavy. If for 1 sq. dm. its supporting area accounts for more than 1.5-2 kg, the bas-relief needs to be reinforced. Corrugated nails 80-120 mm driven into plastic dowels are best suited for this.

Attachment points are marked in advance under the thickest places, distributing them as evenly as possible over the area. The nail in the dowel should sit in the wall at least to a depth of 50-60 mm. The protrusion above the wall is 1.5-2 cm, for which the nail driven into the dowel is bitten.

The mass of the bas-relief above the protruding fixing pin should be at least 1-1.5 cm.

Superbas-relief

And in conclusion - how to try yourself in the elite technique of shadow bas-relief. All you need is a piece of drywall with a layer of fresh stock solution of approx. 0.5 cm and nail 100-150 mm. From the edges of the tip of the nail, you need to carefully remove the flash to get the correct 4-sided pyramid.

We prepare the sample as follows: we prick with a nail with a slight slope along the still plastic GKL coating even rows of holes in a checkerboard pattern and close to each other. The slope of the nail and the orientation of the edges of its point relative to the directions of the rows must be maintained as accurately as possible so that the holes are equally asymmetrical.

The next step is to take the sample into direct sunlight and, turning this way and that, and somehow, we observe the play of chiaroscuro. At the same time, we try to imagine how it would be necessary to prick the holes in order to get a changing pattern. And, who knows, maybe you will find the ability to this rare, but extraordinarily spectacular art - shadow bas-relief.

How to sculpt from sculptural clay

To perform sculptural work in art schools and workshops, in addition to gypsum and clay, various types of plasticine are used. The most popular is sculptural plasticine, which makes it possible to create interesting products.

Professional plasticine

First you need to deal with the question of sculptural clay - what is it? Its difference from conventional plasticine lies in higher plastic properties.

Thanks to the huge range of colors, you can work in various subjects.

For example, a face mask can be molded from such plasticine, which, thanks to natural shades, will mimic the natural skin tone well.

Vegetables and fruits will also look realistic.

Plasticine warms up well from the palms and fingers, it softens easily, therefore, working with it, you can fashion not only large details, but also small thin elements.

Regardless of the size of the product, it will turn out clear and expressive. Plasticine may vary in hardness. Unlike soft plasticine, hard plasticine requires additional heating.

How to work with sculptural clay

The process of how to work with sculptural clay is very similar to modeling from simple school material. But depending on what tasks you are pursuing, additional materials may be needed, for example, petroleum jelly, aluminum wire, heated water or other sources of heat.

If you need to sculpt a small figure, you do not need to heat up the entire clay - take a small piece of it. It can be broken off or cut off with a knife, after wetting its blade with water. If at the end of sculpting you still have pieces of plasticine, just press them to the main mass.

Before proceeding to the main process, first decide what you want to sculpt, and think over this in as much detail as possible. It is better to make small sketches of the future product.

Prepare the necessary material and your workplace, look at the sketch during the modeling process. Works are fixed with the help of wire frames.

After the sculpture is ready, remove it from heat sources, otherwise it may float.

How to sculpt?

First you need to separate the part that you will work with from the main bar.

Before using the sculptural clay, the material must be warmed up a little, but not overdone, otherwise it may become too brittle or stubborn.

To restore the plastic, you can use a little oil or Vaseline. And to increase strength, you can add talc or potato flour.

For large crafts, a wire is used, from which a frame is created that does not allow parts to swim and settle. For these purposes, copper wire cannot be used - plasticine contains substances that react with it and corrode the metal. It should be noted that for a person, all modeling materials are absolutely safe.

For large crafts, it is better to use soft varieties. It is convenient to sculpt small details from hard plasticine, because then they will not stick to your fingers and spread.

Sculpture. Lessons for beginners. Step-by-step instructions for creating a plasticine sculpture "Hare"

If at heart you are an artist who wants to give the world three-dimensional works, you should definitely try your hand at creating a sculpture. Start with simple pieces that require only sculpting clay and a few inexpensive, easy-to-use tools.

In our example, we will make a simple frameless sculpture "Hare".

Prepare plasticine.

To do this, knead it well in your hands until a homogeneous lump of uniform consistency is obtained.

Instead of sculptural plasticine, you can use ordinary children's colored plasticine: just dip the tiles of ordinary plasticine in hot water, and when they soften, knead them with your hands to a homogeneous consistency.

Of course, such plasticine is somewhat inferior to the sculptural one. It is much softer when cured, which is a big disadvantage if you plan to use a clay model to cast a sculpture in plaster. If your goal is to learn how to sculpt, then self-made plasticine may turn out to be an even more convenient option.

Get your tools ready right away.

The main tools of the sculptor when working with plasticine are stacks. Stacks look like small wooden, metal or plastic sticks with ends in the form of straight, beveled or rounded spatulas, lancets, etc.

They serve for effective processing of the surface of the sculpture - shaping, leveling the surface and applying detailing.

Stacks can be purchased at art salons and specialized online stores, or you can make your own, in accordance with your own ideas about a convenient tool.

At the initial stage, an old bank card, a table knife or a teaspoon with a narrow border can serve as a stack. You can also use wood carving tools, surgical tools, an awl, needles and various manicure tools - when creating a small plasticine sculpture with such sharp objects, it is very convenient to perform detailing.

When the material and tools are ready, you can begin.

Step 1: FIGURE

First, we blind the hare figure itself. To do this, from well-mashed plasticine, we will make three blanks: one small for the head, the second for the breast and the third for the lower part of the figure.

The head of the hare is slightly elongated, try to immediately give it the desired shape. Then connect all three parts together using a simple “coating”, smoothing the joints with your fingers or a stack.

The result will be a general shape - a figure, which we will further supplement with details corresponding to the anatomical features of the hare.

Step 2: PAWS

To sculpt the front paws, we roll two small “sausages” out of plasticine. Then, kneading, we alternately attach them to the figure, smoothing the junctions with our fingers.

In the process of joining, we give the paws the desired shape, achieving maximum resemblance to the paws of a real animal.

The hind legs of the hare are larger than the front ones, so for sculpting them we make “sausages” of a slightly larger size. We attach to the figure, adjusting the shape of the hind legs, just as in the case of the front ones. On the sides we add plasticine, and, smoothing it with our fingers, we give the paws a bent position.

Step 3: EARS

We will fashion oblong ears from two pieces of plasticine, after which, having determined their position at our discretion - whether they will stand or lie, we will firmly attach the ears to the hare's head.

Step 4: TAIL

Last we blind the tail. To do this, roll a small ball out of plasticine and attach it to the main figure, in the same way as the rest of the parts earlier. Smooth the junction with your fingers.

On this figure of a hare, we are ready. Now we need to apply texture and features to it.

Step 5: DETAILS

With the help of a sharp tool, we mark the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe breast and the folds at the withers.

Let's remove the excess plasticine from the back and other places, achieving the optimal shape. Using the same tool, cut small grooves on the paws - fingers.

Now let's work on the muzzle.

To do this, we will make recesses for the eyes and nose, and, pressing them, we will place small balls of plasticine in them. As usual, smooth out the joints with your fingers and remove excess plasticine.

Then, using a thin stack, we cut through the eyes and work out the shape of the nose.

The same tool can be used to make a smile.

With the help of additionally applied plasticine, we make cheeks and chin: we give them the desired shape with our fingers, smooth and remove all unnecessary.

We will give the shape of the tail by applying several grooves to it and slightly narrowing it towards the end.

The last stage is the application of wool. To do this, using a stack, apply strokes of different lengths to the surface of the figure. The hair on the back is longer - there the strokes will be longer.

Apply hair along the growth line - passing along the back, smoothly moving to the paws and slightly changing direction. Places that we have allocated before - breast and cheeks, leave without hair. So the hare will turn out to be more “alive”, and due to the difference in textures, the sculpture will look even more interesting.

That's all, our hare is ready.

Mila Zakatova, artist-sculptor, member of the International Art Fund, member of the Professional Union of Artists, laureate of the sculpture award of the International Competition for Young Artists, held a master class on creating sculpture.

Plasticine painting. Ideas for creativity:

Painting is one of the most difficult art forms. A person is a creature that always tries to make life easier for itself. And since people love art, and every second wants to create, plasticine painting was invented.

Even a child can perform work in such a technique. The main thing here is patience. Indeed, unlike an oil painting, plasticine cannot fail. Today we want to offer some ideas for creativity and inspire the creation of a masterpiece.

A little about plasticine painting

This type of art appeared relatively recently, at the end of the last century. Before that, plasticine artists sculpted three-dimensional figures. Often this material was used, and is currently being used, by sculptors to quickly make any form.

The technique of plasticine painting was originally mastered only by children. Artists considered it pampering. But kindergarten teachers were happy to smear plasticine on cardboard with children. This process develops fine motor skills, imagination and helps to strengthen the muscles of the hands.

But over time, plasticine painting went beyond the kindergarten, and today it has many fans among adults. True, professional artists still consider this type of art too primitive. But in fact, it is not primitive, but decorative.

And it definitely has a right to exist.

Types of such painting

As in any art, with its development there are many different techniques in which you can create. What types of plasticine painting exist?

• modeling with strokes;
• relief molding;
• template work;
• harness molding;
• contour creation of works;
• pea molding.

Each of the varieties of such painting requires its own material. Types of plasticine are different. There is a soft material that spreads well on the surface. And there is a hard plasticine that holds its shape well.

Materials that are necessary for work

To create a picture in the technique of plasticine painting, you need to purchase everything you need. And what is required for work? Various types of plasticine. And what are they? Plasticine happens:

• usual;
• paraffin;
• wax;
• ball;
• fluorescent;
• sculptural;
• freezing.

In addition to plasticine, you will need stacks. Those are plastic knives. Usually they are invested in large sets of plasticine. But if you decide to get down to business seriously, then get high-quality wooden stacks.

The basis for any work should be either cardboard or a piece of fiberboard. The second option is preferable.

Various napkins and rags can also come in handy.

New Year's landscape

Leaving for the winter holidays, children, and often adults, do not know what to do with themselves. Everyone can try themselves as a plasticine painter. The result of your creativity will inspire throughout the year.

How to create a picture in the technique of plasticine painting? New Year will be a great subject for the image. First you need to draw a sketch on a piece of cardboard with a pencil. It can be a house, a bridge, a river and snow-covered trees. We will create this picture in two techniques: modeling with strokes and modeling with peas.

First of all, draw the background. We take blue plasticine, knead it in our hands, tear off a small piece and spread it on cardboard. You need to rub the material strongly so that the hitch is of high quality. In order to reduce the consumption of plasticine, the background layer must be made thin.

Blue strokes should be alternated with white and dark blue. It will be a river. Next, draw the sunset. It will be purple and pink. The second stage of work is the sculpting of the second plan. It will be a house, a bridge and Christmas trees. We create a house in the following way. We roll small multi-colored balls from plasticine and fill the contour with them.

The final action is the drawing of the trees in the foreground. We make the trunk in the usual way of smearing plasticine, and we make branches from bundles.

stylized tree

We will make this work in a very unusual way. To create a picture you need a syringe. We remove the needle from it, immerse the clay in the cylinder and insert the piston. We fill the first syringe with a dark green material, and the second with a light one. Now we heat water in a saucepan and put syringes there.

When the plasticine has melted a little, work can begin. We take out the syringes and squeeze the sausages onto the cardboard. We alternate dark and light plasticine. We glue the sausages in semicircles, as if creating the effect of a hilly area. When the grass is ready, we wash the syringes and fill them with blue shades of plasticine.

Warm up the material and start painting the sky. We make it in straight stripes, alternating several shades. Wherever the sun will be, you need to leave free space. Using a similar technique, we create a heavenly body, a tree and stylized apples.

Plasticine painting is an interesting activity, and the method of working with a syringe is one of the simplest, but at the same time very effective.

Willow

One of the interesting leisure activities is plasticine painting. Read the master class on making a willow bouquet below. To create such a picture, you will need colored cardboard and plasticine in blue, blue, brown and white. We prepare the material.

You need to start by kneading blue and blue plasticine. When the material becomes soft, roll sausages out of it. Now you need to divide the sheet of cardboard visually into three parts. The bottom of the sheet will be occupied by a vase. We outline its middle and begin to twist the sausages into a snail in this place.

Alternate blue and blue colors.

When the large circle is ready, we frame it with straight sausages from above and below. Now let's start making willow branches. To do this, roll sausages from brown plasticine. We lay out the branches in random order.

It is desirable that they turn out an odd number. Collecting willow buds. To do this, roll up small brown and white sausages. We connect them with each other. Now the buds need to be glued to the branches - and the picture will be ready.

gzhel

Plasticine painting can be made based on folk craft. For example, gzhel. Let's create an image of a bird from the harnesses. On the cardboard you need to draw the outline of the chicken. The drawing can be copied from the sample above, or you can come up with your own picture. The bird will be complemented by a floral ornament located above and below.

For the manufacture of this work you will need a syringe. We fill it with plasticine, heat it up in a saucepan and get down to creativity. We lay out the tail and contour of the bird, as well as the ornament, with thin bundles. You need to supplement the image with thick stripes of blue and blue. We roll the sausages by hand and flatten them a little with our fingers. We create an ornament inside the bird.

With a stack or a fingernail, a pattern in the form of cuts should be applied to thick sausages. From the rolled out layer of plasticine, cut out the outline of the head. It remains to place small details. We roll up balls of blue plasticine and place them in accordance with the pattern. White dots should be placed as color accents.

They need to be made from balls and glued to the center of the blue circles.

sailboat

Works in the technique of plasticine painting look beautiful and original. Before starting work, you need to create a sketch. We take tinted cardboard and draw the outline of a sailboat and waves. To create an image, we need plasticine heated in syringes. When the material melts a little, we get to work. We lay out the silhouette of the boat with thin bundles.

Stretching from brown to white will look beautiful. When the hull is ready, you need to make sails. We also draw them with bundles squeezed out of a syringe. But the flags will have to be done manually. It remains to complete the picture with waves. We make lamb from plasticine. You need to choose the material carefully so that the colors blend beautifully with each other.

If your kit does not have a suitable shade, you should make it yourself by mixing blue plasticine with white. As an addition, you can glue seagulls over the sailboat. Frame the work with plasticine. You need to roll up two sausages and twist them into a tourniquet. If there is a break in the tourniquet, it is better to redo it.

Such work can be supplemented with shells and metal fittings in the form of an anchor.

The girl in the boat

Only an experienced master can create such a picture. Plasticine painting from a syringe requires skill. Before you start working directly, you should draw a sketch. Then you need to warm up the plasticine in syringes. And it will have to be done in batches.

Alternatively, you can leave unused plasticine syringes in warm water so that the material does not harden. The first step is to make a boat. It is made from shades of brown and yellow plasticine. To the right is the shadow, and to the left is the light.

This must be taken into account when filling the contour of the boat with bundles.

When the swimming facility is ready, we proceed to the manufacture of the girl. With strokes we create her face and hand, and then the hair and dress are laid out with bundles. And again, you need to remember about light and shadow. The hair on the right will be darker and the left lighter. The dress should be made in layers, and you should start making it from the end, that is, from the hem.

Tier by tier we impose bundles, creating the effect of voluminous ruffles. We pass to the final part - “draw” the sea. The waves will look like swirling snails. They also need to be made in layers to create the effect of the background and foreground. Some circles can be emphasized with white stripes - these will be highlights.

We make a frame from the bundles, and on top you can depict a wave to show the infinity of the water element.

giraffes

Making animals from plasticine is an easy task. Moreover, making figures on a plane is even easier than sculpting them in volume. How to “paint” a picture with two giraffes? The first step is to make a background with strokes of soft plasticine. Then sculpt animal figurines. They are created in the following way.

To make a large giraffe, we roll out a layer of plasticine. From it we cut out two ovals, one small and the other elongated, and a rectangle with soft edges. Glue all this in the desired sequence on the background. From thick sausages, legs, tail and horns should be created. Ears should be drop-shaped.

Now you need to decorate the animal.

We make hooves and balls for horns from purple plasticine. From yellow circles we make spots and a tail tassel, and from black balls we make eyes and a nose. By analogy, we create a small giraffe. Now we turn to the manufacture of trees.

The brown rectangles with soft edges will become the trunks. They can be decorated with plaits to match. We roll balls from green plasticine and flatten them. Thus we create foliage. A variety of birds can be planted on trees.

Social work

Children can be instilled in a caring attitude towards our smaller brothers in various ways. One of them is to sculpt animals from plasticine. It is desirable that some social problem is raised in the work, for example, the friendship of a person and a dog.

You need to start making this picture from plasticine by rubbing the material into the background. Then you need to make a background - these can be windows and bricks that look out from under the peeling plaster. In the foreground, with strokes, we depict a girl with an umbrella and a dog.

It remains to supplement the composition with raindrops and a symbolic inscription.

winter picture

Plasticine painting for children is not only a way to pass the time. Thanks to such creativity, fine motor skills develop, as well as imagination and patience. You can create a picture on a winter theme not only on cardboard, but also on a disposable paper plate.

We close this product with blue and white plasticine, which we rub into the cardboard with strokes. Now we build a hut from rectangles. Add a window to it. We make a roof. In the foreground, you should “draw” a sprawling Christmas tree with green strokes, and fold rowan branches from the flagella.

You need to supplement the composition with a bullfinch, a month and snow flakes.

Dog

It will be easy to create any animal if you print its outline on a printer. The object of our creation will be a dog. Plasticine painting can be not only realistic, but also decorative. Therefore, we will make the animal colorful.

We warm a piece of plasticine in our hand. We decorate various parts of the dog with strokes of this color. Then we take another shade and do the same.

The work will be completed when there is “no living space left” on the dog, that is, it will all consist of strokes of plasticine.

I decided that I need to write down what we do in the subjects of fine arts and technology, because I have to go through this 4 more times))

First, there will be infa from the Internet, later I will add the result that we got))

Bas-relief is a more complex version of working with plasticine. It will require some skill in working with this material, the ability to mix colors and accuracy. It is best to start mastering the technology of a plasticine picture with simple small images. In the process of making a picture in plasticine technique, everyone develops their own style and manner, they gain confidence in working with the material, their own recipes for obtaining tones and shades, as well as little tricks and secrets. By completing a few simple and small paintings. It will be possible to proceed to a more complex work.

So, to create a plasticine bas-relief, you will need a plot (either your own or from a book (magazine)), a base, a set of stacks and some initial knowledge about the technique of making a plasticine picture.

Thick cardboard, a Plexiglas plate or plywood are suitable as a basis. Bas-reliefs made of plasticine can be both flatter and convex, depending on the components.

At first, the background of the painting has a flat surface and resembles an oil painting, and in the bas-relief version, the constituent figures may slightly protrude above its surface.

The picture can be square, round, oval, etc. Plasticine is applied to the base with a stack or fingers. It is best to smear plasticine on cardboard with your hands, since the material under pressure lies in an even layer on the surface, thus achieving the effect of a smear with oil paints.

A picture can be embossed in many ways - by forming elements using a stack, sculpting individual parts, by cutting with scissors and lifting cuts, rubbing plasticine through a sieve or squeezing it through a garlic press.

Work on the painting begins from the top edge of the base, in order to prevent the hands from touching the surface areas covered with plasticine. Rounded and oval elements are made of rolled plasticine balls, which flatten out when fixed on the base.

Thin stripes in the picture are made using rollers rolled on a plane. The rollers should not be too long, otherwise it will be difficult to transfer them to the base. Long lines and elements are made up of several short rollers. Before applying the rollers to the surface, they must first be cooled. When rolling out thin rollers, it must be borne in mind that when flattened, they increase in cross section.

To complete such details of the picture as petals, flower stalks, curls, strands of hair, you will need even rollers, which can be obtained by squeezing heated plasticine through a disposable syringe or through a garlic press. If you rub plasticine through a small metal strainer, you can get loose and fluffy elements of the picture, such as corals, grass, animal fur, and more.

With the help of a comb, the tips of scissors, an awl or a stack, by pushing through thin grooves, you can achieve the effect of embossing some details of the picture (for example, sea waves or ripples can be done by scratching the surface with a comb).

To depict leaves or tree crowns, a carved edge is created near the plasticine part. This can be done by cutting the plasticine cake with scissors, a stack or a scalpel, pressing it at an angle to the design line.

Some details of the plasticine picture may have a complex outline. In this case, you need to apply a plasticine cake and remove the excess plasticine with a stack.

If the picture contains elements that are difficult to mold, then they are repeated with a thin layer of plasticine on paper, cut out with scissors and stuck to the base using thin plasticine rollers.

To get the effect of volume or transparency of some elements of the picture, plasticine is applied in a thin layer and rubbed with your fingers. To achieve the desired effect, the excess layer of plasticine is scraped off with a stack.

How to arrange and store plasticine bas-reliefs? They are best stored under a transparent film, they can also be placed in a frame under glass, but put a gasket along the frame that matches the bulge of the image. Plasticine paintings should not be deformed, exposed to direct sunlight and heat.

So, to summarize, what is needed to create a plasticine picture?

Base: cardboard, plexiglass, plywood, oilcloth.

Tools: a set of stacks, scissors (for cutting out parts), a stationery knife or scalpel, an awl or toothpicks, a rolling pin, a comb, a metal strainer, a garlic press or a special plasticine press, a regular medical syringe, special sets of molds and syringes for plasticine.

Black lead pencil for sketching. For the little ones, triangular black lead pencils are very convenient.

Modeling board. You can take a piece of ordinary linoleum.

A glass of water (for wetting your hands so that the plasticine is not sticky)

Napkins for hands. It is very convenient to use a regular kitchen microfiber damp cloth.

Good plasticine. This is the plasticine that has a bright color, rolls thinly and does not stick to your hands.

Come up with a sketch. Select image color and background. Select the desired picture format. Decide what size and shape it will be. Prepare the base according to these dimensions.

Frame with glass or cling film.

In the bas-relief technique, you can perform individual plots, masks and much more. For a bas-relief that will be painted, you can take the remains of plasticine and mix them into a total mass. All kinds of masks, the image of which can be found in books and magazines, can be a wonderful decoration on the wall. The basis for such products are wooden and plastic planks; for very small ones, nylon or metal lids for cans are suitable.

We sculpt a bas-relief.

Select a picture to create a bas-relief.

We tear off small pieces from plasticine and smear. We will get the basis for the bas-relief.

This is the drawing we got.

Details for the picture are carried out separately. We use special molds.

We attach the resulting silhouettes to the base. We decorate them. To do this, draw a relief pattern on them with a thin stick (needles for the Christmas tree, feathers for birds, fur for animals).

Using the cutting technique, we pinch off a small amount of plasticine and immediately attach the wings to the birds, grass and petals. Stems for flowers are obtained by rolling sausages. We roll up and fasten small balls in the center of the flowers.

We decorate our craft with multi-colored beads. giving her a cheerful mood.

Ideas for inspiration will be in the comments.